BIG TRIP: Barcelona

I stood between a pile of dead fish and a mountain of colourful candy and a vision for my life flashed before my eyes: I would work selling fruit at La Boqueria for the rest of my life and I would be blissful. La Boqueria is a large (read: labyrinth) market full of every kind of edible wonder Spain has to offer, and it's situated in the center of Barcelona.


When I arrived in Barcelona two days earlier with some close friends, I began to hear rumours of a magical market, full of fresh food, but I didn't think twice about it. Little did I know when I stepped off the crowded Ryanair jet into the steamy Girona air that two days later I would find my calling in life.


Barcelona in early October offers the college student on holiday everything they could desire: warm weather, cheap booze, sandy beaches, tapas and late late nights. But for anyone over twenty-five (or anyone who has even been to the ocean) Barcelona's beaches leave much to be desired. I quickly figured this out upon finding a dead fish and a feminine hygiene pad floating in the ocean wave next to me as I swam. The locals know to head away from the city for a legitimate day in the ocean. I suggest Ocata beach, made extremely accessible by a train that takes you forty minutes outside the city to a strip of sand and clean water with gorgeous views of the Barcelona skyline. Enjoy a beer or two from the cabana hut on the beach, and spend a day body surfing or lounging in a floaty (the water is calm) in the ocean. Just beware of the local fishermen with their deep sea fishing lines!

As the sun began to set behind the city skyline, we boarded a train back to the city and attempted to wash the salt from our hair with a shower. After lounging about for a bit — the night doesn't start in Spain until well after midnight — we went for a late night stroll in the Eixample district, down Paseo de Gracia, when we ran into Gaudi. Not Gaudi the man, sadly long gone, but Gaudi in all of its architectural glory, in la Casa Mila. And just a bit further down the same road, in la Casa Batló. These buildings, designed by the famous architect who made his name in Barcelona, are lit up at night in a way that renders them majestic and ominous, not seen in the daylight. 

After our awe-inspiring architectural discovery, we duck in to a tiny bar called Chupitos. Translated, "chupitos" means "little sucks", the term the Spanish use for shots. The bar boasts a menu of over 500 shots, and provides pitchers of cocktails for those who aren't willing to stand at the bar and wait to try out their dozen or so off the menu. We weren't feeling quite so adventurous, and opted for a couple flaming shots instead of the "Monica Lewinsky" which comes poured through a dildo with whipped cream topping.

When we had had enough of the fire-stunts, we found our way home on the nightbus (you would think a city that starts drinking at 1 am would have an all night metro service) we clambered into bed feeling the effects of sun and sand and shots.

After a free breakfast at our hostel, the Equity Sea Point Hostel in Barceloneta, our group headed to the National Gallery off of la Placa de Espanola. The museum houses an extensive collection of work by Spanish and more specifically Catalonia artists. A large portion of the museum is dedicated to Romantic, Romanesque and Modern art, and features such artists as Picasso and Gaudi. We spent the bulk of mid-afternoon inside the air conditioned walls of this elaborate building, taking in a bit of Catalonian culture.

The main entrance to the museum sits above the city and overlooks central Barcelona. We bought some espressos and cookies, I bought a folding fan from a nearby vendor, and we lounged on the stone steps taking in the view in true siesta-style.

Once we had our fill of art and views, we ventured back down into the city to La Rambla district, for La Boqueria. The entrance is intimidating — a large metal structural gap between two buildings, feeding on crowds that endlessly pour into the dark space. Once inside, however, your eyes adjust and you are left in awe at the colour and overwhelming amounts of food. I wandered around for quarter of an hour before deciding on what I would purchase first: battered cod served hot and steaming on a skewar. And after that first buy I couldn't stop myself: a cup of fresh coconut smoothie, a bag of sweets, a plate of mixed fruit. When my friends were finally able to dislodge me from inside the market, and I walked away in lament at leaving La Boqueria behind, I knew that I had found my spot in the city. I would be back.

After the hustle and bustle (and full stomachs) of La Boqueria we found ourselves back near our hostel at Barceloneta beach. The afternoon was spent sipping mojitos and sangria in the sand, soaking up the sun and taking multiple naps. (Notice the lack of swimming — remember the forewarning of dirty oceans water at the beaches that line the city.)

That night we found some tapas in a Catalonian bar tucked deep inside Barceloneta, where not a single person (vendor or patron) spoke English. After patatas bravas and tortilla espanolas, we walked along the boardwalk to the mega clubs along the water. A whir of lights and music and dancing and drinks we couldn't pronounce. And we made our way back to the hostel, sometime around 5 am, for a much needed sleep.

At this point in the trip, it would be ridiculous to attempt waking up any time before noon. In the early afternoon we pulled on our sandals and tank tops and went in search of more Gaudi. We hadn't had our fill. After a metror ride, a wrong turn (where my limited Spanish came in handy to ask directions) and a trek up a massive incline we found ourselves in Parc Guel. Once again we stood in a vantage point to view the city of Barcelona, only this time we were one of the highest spots in sight.

We clambered to the highest point in the park, a stone structure with a cross atop (Gaudi's artwork is always focused on the religious, a connection with nature and the spiritual). We left this precarious point when a musician, clad in leopard patterned spandex, began singing covers of American songs — and singing the name of the songs as he sang for those who couldn't follow his garbled lyrics.

We ate a picnic lunch in the shade of Gaudi's architecture, and watched as the street vendors snatched up their wares when the police came patrolling. We climbed some steps and sat on the longest bench in the world, a mosaic masterpiece that twists and curves in a serpentine fashion. The atmosphere was very relaxed and surprisingly communal, as if Gaudi himself was bringing people from around the world together in his public space.

To finish our Gaudi tour of Barcelona we stopped off at La Sagrada Familia, a cathedral designed by Gaudi that has been continually under construction since 1882. We opted out of waiting in the line that wrapped around the city block, and just walked the perimter. The outside is the most impressive bit, we had been told. Every side of the building provided a new design, a new theme, a new pop of colour. What a way to finish our sights of Gaudi.

For our final evening in Barcelona we ventured back to the National Museum, not for more art, but for the free fountain light show in the plaza below. Every Saturday night the large round fountain that remains off during the day comes to life, with music and lights, and water is sprayed into the air in a choreographed show. The crowd thinned and swelled as a new display began every twenty minutes. The city of Barcelona had gathered to enjoy the free spectacle. As I sat on the fountain's edge with my feet dangling over the water, I felt I was Catalonian, that I had been welcomed into the city by its art and people.

When the lights faded and the water calmed, we walked with the crowds to the metro and sped back to our strip of restaurants in Barceloneta along the marina. We sat at an Italian restaurant and ordered pizzas, one each, all different, and then watched as they kneaded our dough, spun it in the air, topped it with goodies and popped them in the oven. The food was not so classically Catalonian, but the atmosphere, the fresh night air and the good conversation with close friends was distinctly Spanish.

ESSENTIAL INFORMATION

Getting There: Fly direct from London Luton to Barcelona Girona with RyanAir from £22.99 one way (ryanair.com).

When to go: Soak up the sun but skip the intense heat in late October or early June. It’s not a real Spanish vacation without the tan!

Currency: Euro. 1 GBP = 1.17 EUR

Accommodation: Equity Point Sea Hostel sits on the edge of the Mediterranean, surrounded by restaurants and convenience shops in Barceloneta on the marina. Within walking distance of the metro, this is a deal starting at £13 a night (equity-point.com).


See: barcelonaturisme.com

CITY BREAK: Bath, England

More than just an old Roman ruin with some hot water, Bath is a modern hub of luxury and history.


HISTORY


The city of Bath, now a world heritage site, has a history that includes the conquering ancient Romans and the fashionable Georgian socialites.

When the Romans arrived on the British Isles, rumours began to circulate among the ranks of a sacred pool of water that ran hot from the center of the Earth. And thus they came to discover the hot springs in the West, already the site of an Iron Age Briton settlement. The natives worshiped their water goddess Sulis here, who the clever Romans associated with their goddess Minerva. To keep the peace the area was named "Aquae Sulis."Archaeological finds show evidence of individuals from the Mediterranean who lived at this ancient site at the same time as early Britons. The Roman baths fell into disrepair with the fall of their empire.

The area came under the possession of numerous Saxon and English kings, until it was officially recognised as a city by Queen Elizabeth I in 1590. She famously called the Bath Abbey "the lantern of the West" noting the abundance of stained glass used in its construction.

During the English Civil War, King Charles I spent seven thousand pounds fortifying the city. During the Stuart period the city came under new developments which only increased in the Georgian era as the city and spa became a popular attraction for socialites and the well-to-do families of the time. It became a resort town, until fashion moved to the coastal city of Brighton.

WALKING TOUR
Start your walking tour at the Bath Abbey. The courtyard to the side is often host to local performers, with mic and amp in tow. Grab a spot on one of the many benches and soak up the feel of the city beneath the towering church walls. Or pop in to the House of Minerva for rich, creamy chocolate treats, located around the corner in the Abbey Church yard. These Belgian chocolate masters draw on power from the goddess Minerva to create truffles, pralines, and hot chocolates that channel something divine.

After you get your fill of chocolate, take the obligatory tour of the Roman baths (romanbaths.co.uk). The entrance fee of £12 gets you an audio tour through the museum, which takes an interactive approach at describing the history, building and use of the site.

Leave the baths and head to what used to be the outskirts of the city, Sydney Place, which was once home to novelist Jane Austen. Gawk, take pictures, but don't knock on the door — it is still a private residence. To get your Austen fix, walk to the Jane Austen Centre (janeausten.co.uk) on Queens Square for tea with Mr. Darcy and a giftshop with more kitsch than is barely tolerable.

If you're not weary of museums, check out the Fashion Museum (fashionmuseum.co.uk) at the Assembly Rooms on Bennett Street. For £7.25 you can see the largest collection of contemporary and historical dress in the world, ranging from gloves from the 1600s to 1960s shift dresses.

Fashion doesn't interest you? Then experience the essence of Bath itself at the Thermae Bath Spa (thermaebathspa.com), Britain's only natural hot spring spa. A rooftop swimming pool looks out over the skyline, dominated by the abbey. If you can shell out £65, you will be treated to a three hour spa session, complimentary use of towel, slippers and robe, and massage.

As you walk around the city center, notice the limestone buildings. Bath is known for its picturesque architecture made of the same uniform stone, which can become discolored without maintenance. The smog and soot of the Industrial revolution remains on some of the city walls.

Finally take a break in one of the city's parks, both public and private. They are immaculate with statuary, flower beds and sculpted hedges. Stroll along the River Avon and be transported back in time.

SHOPPING
Bath has a long tradition of being fashionable. Covered alleys crammed with shops used to be the stomping grounds of young Victorian couples out for an afternoon, with chaperone in tow. Some shopping areas even had raised platforms for musicians to play while shoppers milled about below.

The city is divided into five distinct shopping districts. The Central Area features high street stores and recognizable brand name chains. But head to Walcot or London Street for the Artisan Quarter, and find yourself among independent craft and curio shops. Looking for designer chiq? Milson Quarter has stores such as Hoss, Reiss and White Stuff.

When you venture to Bath, don't be fooled by the city's namesake. The layers of history are apparent in all corners of the city if you are willing to look.

EAT, DRINK, SLEEP
Where to Eat:

Gascoyne Place (gasgoyneplace.co.uk) for a modern British menu that sources from local farms. This public house offers five different eating areas, each with a distinct ambience, and is located just across from the Theatre Royal Bath. Dinner mains start at £11.

St. Michael’s Church and Cafe, yes a church, for a quaint lunch in an impressive setting.    The church generates income with the cafe for those in need, with salads and baguettes and cake to share (stmichaelsbath.org.uk).

Where to Drink:

The Mad Hatter’s Tea Party for tea and coffees in a cozy, quirky environment. Order the cream tea for £3.95 and sample southern English tradition at its best. Located just behind the Cathedral across from The Recreation Ground.

The Marlborough Tavern for a local pub feel with award winning grub. Once a down and out dive, today the tavern is a posh Bath institution. Try the Junior Mojito for £3.50; glass of wine starts at £3.75, spirits at £2.35, mixed drinks at £6.50. (marlborough-tavern.com)

Where to Sleep:

St Christopher’s Inn Bath from £10.50 for a mixed dorm. Centrally located, check in on a Wednesday for open mic night! (hostelworld.com)

Highways Guest House from £72 for standard double. For a more private experience than the hostel, try this affordable Victorian town house within walking distance of the city center (highwayshouse.co.uk).


WHEN TO GO:

Avoid the crowds and tourists and head to Bath mid-week. Festivals take place during any season and most attractions are open year round.

GETTING THERE:

Coaches run from London to Bath daily. Fares start at £5.50 one way with National Express from London Victoria Coach Station, 3 hr 25 mins (nationalexpress.com). Trains from London to Bath start at £12 one way, 1 hr 30 mins (thetrainline.com).


SEE: visitbath.co.uk

UK TRIP: Kent

Kent features some of England's most iconic shoreline and countryside, and is located just 35 minutes from central London by train. When you go for a trip in this region, don't expect late nights out in dance clubs with loud music. So when city life (and the incapacitating hangover after a night out) becomes a monotonous bore, head East to Kent. There's no excuse not to spend some time in this quiet, coastal region of the country.


LEEDS CASTLE
Leeds Castle, confusing not in the city of Leeds, was built nearly 900 years ago and has been a residence of notable English monarchs like King Henry VIII and his first wife Catharine of Aragon. The picturesque stone castle is surrounded by a moat and acres of lush green countryside. Once you pay the £18.50 entrance fee you are given free reign to roam the grounds and walk through the castle rooms, themed in period dress from the 1500s to the 1920s.

Once you have been adequately acquainted with the castle's history, cross back over the moat off the island to the small snack shop for some warm hot chocolate and bagged traditional sweets. Take in the renovated stables and cobblestone square.

Just beyond the snack shop is the Culpeper Garden, an English villa and garden that originally served as the castle's kitchen garden in the 1600s. Follow the lakeside path a bit further on, past the aviary, and find yourself in a spiraling yew maze that ends in a dark and damp grotto underground. This bit of childish fun shouldn't be passed up.

After all of the time spent on your feet, treat yourself to the 50 pence train ride across the grounds back to the main gate. Thrilling for those visitors under the age of five, it's a relaxing way to see new angles of the castle and unexplored corners of the grounds.

Leeds Castle (leeds-castle.com) is a prominent feature in the Kent countryside that has dominated the region's history for hundreds of years. Don't miss out on this national treasure!

CANTERBURY
The medieval town of Canterbury gained name recognition with Geoffrey Chaucer's 'Canterbury Tales', a rowdy telling of pilgrims' travels to the city, notably written in English (quite scandalous when the royal court was speaking French). But as the story suggests, the town had long been the site of religious pilgrimage, which was only heightened when Archbishop Thomas Beckett was murdered inside the Canterbury Cathedral.

Now the medieval alleys and mews are crammed with an eclectic mix of high street shops and recreation period stores. Wander through the streets and take in the feel of the town as it would have been five hundred years ago, with crammed walkways and narrow storefronts. Don't miss Ye Olde Chocolate Shoppe just outside the cathedral for chili pepper dark chocolate bars and home-made marzipan.

To get the real historic experience, dare to enter The Canterbury Tales Experience (canterburytales.org.uk) on St. Margaret's Street two blocks from the cathedral. Fork over £7.95 to be transported into Chaucer's story complete with the sounds and smells of medieval England.

Emerge from the hour and a half time warp tour and make your way down St. Margaret's street to Canterbury Cathedral (canterbury-cathedral.org). You may not be a pilgrim making a religious trek, but the architecture and history (and the astounding amount of dead important people buried in the walls and under the floors) make this cathedral a site to behold. For £9.50 you are granted free access to the multiple areas of worship, corridors, crypts and courtyards.

Canterbury is a perfect stop-over on your way from London through Kent to the coast. 

DOVER
Before you venture to Dover, understand one thing: you are not going to Dover for Dover. You are going for the white cliffs, and the medieval castle. The actual town of Dover is run down, consists of one main street (while it is cobble-stoned it does not capitalize completely on any notion of 'quaint'), and closes down at six in the evening. But all of this is worth looking past, if you are looking past it to the pristine white chalk cliffs at the edge of town.

Drive yourself to the White Cliffs Visitor Centre (nationaltrust.org.uk/main/w-thewhitecliffsofdover) and head out on the hour and half hike atop the white cliffs to the South Foreland Lighthouse. The lighthouse itself is closed in the winter, but the trek out there (about two miles) provides breathtaking views across the channel, to France on a clear day.

At points the path runs within feet of the edge of the cliff-side, and no barrier exists between you and a drop down to the water below. Brave the edge for some jaw-dropping photos but don't get so carried away that the gusts get the best of you.

The lighthouse at the end of the path is an understated point of finish for the breathtaking trek. Now just turn around and walk the two miles back to the visitors centre (feel free to stop for some water at their cafe once you emerge winded and sweating from the return journey).

Driving back from the cliffs towards the highway, stop off at Dover Castle (english-heritage.org.uk/daysout/properties/dover-castle/). The site of the stone turreted beauty has origins in the pre-historic Iron Age, and the actual castle was built by Henry II in the 1160s and once hosted Queen Elizabeth I. The fortress was garrisoned continuously until as recently as 1958, and was used during WWII for a series of underground wartime tunnels and hospital.

The £16 entrance fee is a bit hefty (concessions are available) but once inside you are granted access to the entire castle, including the multiple museums, recreations, and the secret wartime tunnels. Check out the Great Tower for endless stone spiral staircases and hidden damp rooms full of chain mail and fake props. It's easy to get lost in the twisting passageways, but make sure you eventually find your way to the top for some one-of-a-kind views of the town, the cliffs, the castle grounds and the channel.

Dover doesn't have much to offer the holiday-maker, so save just an afternoon for the White Cliffs and the castle. If you still have some time after your time in Kent, hop on a ferry at the Dover docks and head to France.

EAT, DRINK, SLEEP
Where to Eat:

The City Fish Bar, in Canterbury, serves up fresh piping hot breaded fish (of all kinds) with chips. Regular fish and chips £6.50. Two blocks from the cathedral on St Margaret’s Street.

Dickens Corner in Dover on the main square. Their classic English breakfast and lunch menu is extremely affordable, and the two story restaurant offers a quaint comfortable atmosphere.






























Where to Drink:
The Cherry Tree in Canterbury. Tucked off the main road, this little cosy pub serves real ales at great prices. The crowd is usually heavily students from the nearby university, and a jukebox provides the music for dancing when the place gets crowded later on a Saturday night.

The Eight Bells in Dover. One of the only restaurants open past six on a Saturday night. Not the most original, this family-friendly bar provides drinks for extremely reasonable prices (try two pitchers of cocktails for £10).













Where to Sleep:
The Victoria Hotel, in Canterbury within walking distance to the cathedral, provides a regal atmosphere with thick carpets, leather furniture and canopy beds. Double rooms start at £65 (thevictoriahotel.co.uk).

Westbank Guest House in Dover sits five minutes from the rail station and town center. Double ensuite rooms start at £50 (westbankguesthouse.com).

WHEN TO GO:

See Kent in the late summer or early fall for a festive harvest experience. Avoid the coast in the winter if you are expecting to leisurely, pleasant stroll along the cliffs.

GETTING THERE:

Coaches from London Victoria Coach Station to Canterbury Kent with National Express from £5.50 return, 1 hr 45 min (nationalexpress.com). Trains from London to Canterbury Kent with Southeastern Railway from £50, 1 hr 45 min (southeasternrailway.co.uk).

See more: visitkent.co.uk