CITY BREAK: Bath, England

More than just an old Roman ruin with some hot water, Bath is a modern hub of luxury and history.


HISTORY


The city of Bath, now a world heritage site, has a history that includes the conquering ancient Romans and the fashionable Georgian socialites.

When the Romans arrived on the British Isles, rumours began to circulate among the ranks of a sacred pool of water that ran hot from the center of the Earth. And thus they came to discover the hot springs in the West, already the site of an Iron Age Briton settlement. The natives worshiped their water goddess Sulis here, who the clever Romans associated with their goddess Minerva. To keep the peace the area was named "Aquae Sulis."Archaeological finds show evidence of individuals from the Mediterranean who lived at this ancient site at the same time as early Britons. The Roman baths fell into disrepair with the fall of their empire.

The area came under the possession of numerous Saxon and English kings, until it was officially recognised as a city by Queen Elizabeth I in 1590. She famously called the Bath Abbey "the lantern of the West" noting the abundance of stained glass used in its construction.

During the English Civil War, King Charles I spent seven thousand pounds fortifying the city. During the Stuart period the city came under new developments which only increased in the Georgian era as the city and spa became a popular attraction for socialites and the well-to-do families of the time. It became a resort town, until fashion moved to the coastal city of Brighton.

WALKING TOUR
Start your walking tour at the Bath Abbey. The courtyard to the side is often host to local performers, with mic and amp in tow. Grab a spot on one of the many benches and soak up the feel of the city beneath the towering church walls. Or pop in to the House of Minerva for rich, creamy chocolate treats, located around the corner in the Abbey Church yard. These Belgian chocolate masters draw on power from the goddess Minerva to create truffles, pralines, and hot chocolates that channel something divine.

After you get your fill of chocolate, take the obligatory tour of the Roman baths (romanbaths.co.uk). The entrance fee of £12 gets you an audio tour through the museum, which takes an interactive approach at describing the history, building and use of the site.

Leave the baths and head to what used to be the outskirts of the city, Sydney Place, which was once home to novelist Jane Austen. Gawk, take pictures, but don't knock on the door — it is still a private residence. To get your Austen fix, walk to the Jane Austen Centre (janeausten.co.uk) on Queens Square for tea with Mr. Darcy and a giftshop with more kitsch than is barely tolerable.

If you're not weary of museums, check out the Fashion Museum (fashionmuseum.co.uk) at the Assembly Rooms on Bennett Street. For £7.25 you can see the largest collection of contemporary and historical dress in the world, ranging from gloves from the 1600s to 1960s shift dresses.

Fashion doesn't interest you? Then experience the essence of Bath itself at the Thermae Bath Spa (thermaebathspa.com), Britain's only natural hot spring spa. A rooftop swimming pool looks out over the skyline, dominated by the abbey. If you can shell out £65, you will be treated to a three hour spa session, complimentary use of towel, slippers and robe, and massage.

As you walk around the city center, notice the limestone buildings. Bath is known for its picturesque architecture made of the same uniform stone, which can become discolored without maintenance. The smog and soot of the Industrial revolution remains on some of the city walls.

Finally take a break in one of the city's parks, both public and private. They are immaculate with statuary, flower beds and sculpted hedges. Stroll along the River Avon and be transported back in time.

SHOPPING
Bath has a long tradition of being fashionable. Covered alleys crammed with shops used to be the stomping grounds of young Victorian couples out for an afternoon, with chaperone in tow. Some shopping areas even had raised platforms for musicians to play while shoppers milled about below.

The city is divided into five distinct shopping districts. The Central Area features high street stores and recognizable brand name chains. But head to Walcot or London Street for the Artisan Quarter, and find yourself among independent craft and curio shops. Looking for designer chiq? Milson Quarter has stores such as Hoss, Reiss and White Stuff.

When you venture to Bath, don't be fooled by the city's namesake. The layers of history are apparent in all corners of the city if you are willing to look.

EAT, DRINK, SLEEP
Where to Eat:

Gascoyne Place (gasgoyneplace.co.uk) for a modern British menu that sources from local farms. This public house offers five different eating areas, each with a distinct ambience, and is located just across from the Theatre Royal Bath. Dinner mains start at £11.

St. Michael’s Church and Cafe, yes a church, for a quaint lunch in an impressive setting.    The church generates income with the cafe for those in need, with salads and baguettes and cake to share (stmichaelsbath.org.uk).

Where to Drink:

The Mad Hatter’s Tea Party for tea and coffees in a cozy, quirky environment. Order the cream tea for £3.95 and sample southern English tradition at its best. Located just behind the Cathedral across from The Recreation Ground.

The Marlborough Tavern for a local pub feel with award winning grub. Once a down and out dive, today the tavern is a posh Bath institution. Try the Junior Mojito for £3.50; glass of wine starts at £3.75, spirits at £2.35, mixed drinks at £6.50. (marlborough-tavern.com)

Where to Sleep:

St Christopher’s Inn Bath from £10.50 for a mixed dorm. Centrally located, check in on a Wednesday for open mic night! (hostelworld.com)

Highways Guest House from £72 for standard double. For a more private experience than the hostel, try this affordable Victorian town house within walking distance of the city center (highwayshouse.co.uk).


WHEN TO GO:

Avoid the crowds and tourists and head to Bath mid-week. Festivals take place during any season and most attractions are open year round.

GETTING THERE:

Coaches run from London to Bath daily. Fares start at £5.50 one way with National Express from London Victoria Coach Station, 3 hr 25 mins (nationalexpress.com). Trains from London to Bath start at £12 one way, 1 hr 30 mins (thetrainline.com).


SEE: visitbath.co.uk