When I arrived in Barcelona two days earlier with some close friends, I began to hear rumours of a magical market, full of fresh food, but I didn't think twice about it. Little did I know when I stepped off the crowded Ryanair jet into the steamy Girona air that two days later I would find my calling in life.
Barcelona in early October offers the college student on holiday everything they could desire: warm weather, cheap booze, sandy beaches, tapas and late late nights. But for anyone over twenty-five (or anyone who has even been to the ocean) Barcelona's beaches leave much to be desired. I quickly figured this out upon finding a dead fish and a feminine hygiene pad floating in the ocean wave next to me as I swam. The locals know to head away from the city for a legitimate day in the ocean. I suggest Ocata beach, made extremely accessible by a train that takes you forty minutes outside the city to a strip of sand and clean water with gorgeous views of the Barcelona skyline. Enjoy a beer or two from the cabana hut on the beach, and spend a day body surfing or lounging in a floaty (the water is calm) in the ocean. Just beware of the local fishermen with their deep sea fishing lines!
As the sun began to set behind the city skyline, we boarded a train back to the city and attempted to wash the salt from our hair with a shower. After lounging about for a bit — the night doesn't start in Spain until well after midnight — we went for a late night stroll in the Eixample district, down Paseo de Gracia, when we ran into Gaudi. Not Gaudi the man, sadly long gone, but Gaudi in all of its architectural glory, in la Casa Mila. And just a bit further down the same road, in la Casa Batlรณ. These buildings, designed by the famous architect who made his name in Barcelona, are lit up at night in a way that renders them majestic and ominous, not seen in the daylight.
After our awe-inspiring architectural discovery, we duck in to a tiny bar called Chupitos. Translated, "chupitos" means "little sucks", the term the Spanish use for shots. The bar boasts a menu of over 500 shots, and provides pitchers of cocktails for those who aren't willing to stand at the bar and wait to try out their dozen or so off the menu. We weren't feeling quite so adventurous, and opted for a couple flaming shots instead of the "Monica Lewinsky" which comes poured through a dildo with whipped cream topping.
When we had had enough of the fire-stunts, we found our way home on the nightbus (you would think a city that starts drinking at 1 am would have an all night metro service) we clambered into bed feeling the effects of sun and sand and shots.
After a free breakfast at our hostel, the Equity Sea Point Hostel in Barceloneta, our group headed to the National Gallery off of la Placa de Espanola. The museum houses an extensive collection of work by Spanish and more specifically Catalonia artists. A large portion of the museum is dedicated to Romantic, Romanesque and Modern art, and features such artists as Picasso and Gaudi. We spent the bulk of mid-afternoon inside the air conditioned walls of this elaborate building, taking in a bit of Catalonian culture.
The main entrance to the museum sits above the city and overlooks central Barcelona. We bought some espressos and cookies, I bought a folding fan from a nearby vendor, and we lounged on the stone steps taking in the view in true siesta-style.
Once we had our fill of art and views, we ventured back down into the city to La Rambla district, for La Boqueria. The entrance is intimidating — a large metal structural gap between two buildings, feeding on crowds that endlessly pour into the dark space. Once inside, however, your eyes adjust and you are left in awe at the colour and overwhelming amounts of food. I wandered around for quarter of an hour before deciding on what I would purchase first: battered cod served hot and steaming on a skewar. And after that first buy I couldn't stop myself: a cup of fresh coconut smoothie, a bag of sweets, a plate of mixed fruit. When my friends were finally able to dislodge me from inside the market, and I walked away in lament at leaving La Boqueria behind, I knew that I had found my spot in the city. I would be back.
After the hustle and bustle (and full stomachs) of La Boqueria we found ourselves back near our hostel at Barceloneta beach. The afternoon was spent sipping mojitos and sangria in the sand, soaking up the sun and taking multiple naps. (Notice the lack of swimming — remember the forewarning of dirty oceans water at the beaches that line the city.)
That night we found some tapas in a Catalonian bar tucked deep inside Barceloneta, where not a single person (vendor or patron) spoke English. After patatas bravas and tortilla espanolas, we walked along the boardwalk to the mega clubs along the water. A whir of lights and music and dancing and drinks we couldn't pronounce. And we made our way back to the hostel, sometime around 5 am, for a much needed sleep.
At this point in the trip, it would be ridiculous to attempt waking up any time before noon. In the early afternoon we pulled on our sandals and tank tops and went in search of more Gaudi. We hadn't had our fill. After a metror ride, a wrong turn (where my limited Spanish came in handy to ask directions) and a trek up a massive incline we found ourselves in Parc Guel. Once again we stood in a vantage point to view the city of Barcelona, only this time we were one of the highest spots in sight.
We clambered to the highest point in the park, a stone structure with a cross atop (Gaudi's artwork is always focused on the religious, a connection with nature and the spiritual). We left this precarious point when a musician, clad in leopard patterned spandex, began singing covers of American songs — and singing the name of the songs as he sang for those who couldn't follow his garbled lyrics.
We ate a picnic lunch in the shade of Gaudi's architecture, and watched as the street vendors snatched up their wares when the police came patrolling. We climbed some steps and sat on the longest bench in the world, a mosaic masterpiece that twists and curves in a serpentine fashion. The atmosphere was very relaxed and surprisingly communal, as if Gaudi himself was bringing people from around the world together in his public space.
To finish our Gaudi tour of Barcelona we stopped off at La Sagrada Familia, a cathedral designed by Gaudi that has been continually under construction since 1882. We opted out of waiting in the line that wrapped around the city block, and just walked the perimter. The outside is the most impressive bit, we had been told. Every side of the building provided a new design, a new theme, a new pop of colour. What a way to finish our sights of Gaudi.
For our final evening in Barcelona we ventured back to the National Museum, not for more art, but for the free fountain light show in the plaza below. Every Saturday night the large round fountain that remains off during the day comes to life, with music and lights, and water is sprayed into the air in a choreographed show. The crowd thinned and swelled as a new display began every twenty minutes. The city of Barcelona had gathered to enjoy the free spectacle. As I sat on the fountain's edge with my feet dangling over the water, I felt I was Catalonian, that I had been welcomed into the city by its art and people.
When the lights faded and the water calmed, we walked with the crowds to the metro and sped back to our strip of restaurants in Barceloneta along the marina. We sat at an Italian restaurant and ordered pizzas, one each, all different, and then watched as they kneaded our dough, spun it in the air, topped it with goodies and popped them in the oven. The food was not so classically Catalonian, but the atmosphere, the fresh night air and the good conversation with close friends was distinctly Spanish.
ESSENTIAL INFORMATION
Getting There: Fly direct from London Luton to Barcelona Girona with RyanAir from £22.99 one way (ryanair.com).
When to go: Soak up the sun but skip the intense heat in late October or early June. It’s not a real Spanish vacation without the tan!
Currency: Euro. 1 GBP = 1.17 EUR
Accommodation: Equity Point Sea Hostel sits on the edge of the Mediterranean, surrounded by restaurants and convenience shops in Barceloneta on the marina. Within walking distance of the metro, this is a deal starting at £13 a night (equity-point.com).
See: barcelonaturisme.com
See: barcelonaturisme.com
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